CAMINHO PORTUGUÊS – Esposende
(38,044 STEPS – 29.18 KMS – 18.12 MILES)
“Though all the peoples walk, each in the name of his god, as for us, we will walk in the name of the LORD our god forever and ever.”
Micah, Hebrew prophet, Micah 4:5
The Walk Out
What I learned about Vila do Conde in the short time I’d been there was that it is a touristy, beach town. As is its sister city, joined at the hip, Póvoa de Varzim. I’d be willing to bet these places are hopping in the summertime, but not so much on a cool April morning. The walk through both towns was mundane. Then in Póvoa, the Way turned 90° to the left and straight to the ocean, my path for the foreseeable future.
Moses 1.0
I’m a fast walker and I move confidently, even when I’m not sure where I’m going. As such, people sometimes follow. This was a theme today.
As I navigated through Póvoa de Varzim, four new pilgrims (Porto is the most popular starting point) fell in behind me as I passed them. I had been watching them as I approached, they were struggling to find their way through the city streets. The new disciples and I found that left turn, and then found the right turn that led us northward up the coastline.
I spied an open café across the busy four-lane street and jaywalked across towards coffee. The followers followed. I think they were expecting me to lead them to Santiago, but instead, it was just a coffee stop. They stopped on the sidewalk, raised their arms in confusion/disgust, and jaywalked back over to the coastal trail.
The moral of the story – be careful who you follow, they may not have the same agenda as you.
The Daughter of Abraham
The walk up the coastline was incredible. Mile after mile of beautiful beaches, jagged rock outcroppings, and perpetual waves rolling onto the shore. And thankfully, there was a boardwalk the whole way, walking any distance through sand is difficult.
After walking the boardwalk for over an hour, I’d worked up a thirst for more coffee and vowed to stop at the next open café. The next café didn’t seem to be open. Still, I crossed the street and put my face against the glass. There was someone inside, so I entered and sidled up to the bar. Um café americano, por favor.
As I waited, the other patron of the bar, a young lady, probably late twenties, asked where I’d started this morning. I answered and returned the question. She said that she had spent the night nearby, her leg was injured, and she was taking the day off, hoping to coax it back to walking health. Next came the normal pilgrim conversation starters – Where are you from? How long have you been out here? Going to Santiago or beyond?
When my coffee was ready, she asked if I wanted to join her.
I returned the pilgrim questions to her. She was from Beit Zayit (house of olives) in Israel. She told me about her life and family, and how she ended up on the Camino (she liked to travel and experience different cultures). Her next question took me by surprise:
“What’s your opinion of the Palestinian-Israeli tension?”
I’m an idealist…and that’s how I started my response. I told her that I try to respect the dignity of all human life, and I wished they could come to a more life-honoring solution. She went on to tell me what it was like growing up in perpetual fear – normal things like walking to school, getting on a bus or a taxi, or going to the market – would erupt in violence. She said she agreed with my statement about the value of all human life, but it was complicated and there are two sides to the story. As she spoke, I remembered the 2000-year-old words of a Jewish rabbi, “Love your enemies and pray for those that persecute you,” and “do not judge, or you too will be judged.” Those words challenge us even today.
She went on to tell me of her deep faith. Last year, I walked briefly with a good guy from Israel. He was not a religious Jew, but still very proud of his heritage. This girl was proud of her heritage and practiced the rituals of her faith. It was a great conversation, I’m intimately familiar with the story. I asked her what she thought of Jesus the rabbi.
“He was the best Jew.”
She finally asked my name and was excited when I told her, David. He was her favorite character in the Hebrew story. What followed was a conversation about what it means to be “a person after God’s own heart.”
As much fun as the conversation was, I had to move on, lots of kilometers to cover still. Before I left, I asked her about her leg injury and how she felt about it and how it has disrupted her Camino (some pilgrims struggle with this). Her response:
“If it doesn’t get better, I will stay here until I fly home, this is a beautiful place to stay! I can come back in the future, the Camino will be here. Or maybe not, I’d love to travel and see other parts of the world. But at the end of the day, it’s okay because I know who I am and I know where I belong.”
Shalom, Moriah! And thanks for the lesson.
Moses 2.0
Leaving the synagogue/café, I continued my walk up the coastline. It was beautiful and fun, and the weather was great beach weather. Not far past the café, the boardwalk turned away from the coastline and bordered a golf course(s) for several kilometers. It made me question my life choices; golf has been a good part of my life, and here I was lumbering in futility with a backpack on back headed for a faraway destination. I could be walking on well-manicured grass with a different kind of pack on my back, chasing a little white ball in futility. I vowed to play more golf when this pilgrimage was finished.
At the end of the golf course, the boardwalk ended, and the Way turned into a gravel/sand path. There was a convergence of paths half a kilometer in. At this junction stood six pilgrims, 4 USAmericans (2 couples) and a German couple, they were all looking at paper maps, Google maps, and phone apps trying to figure where to go from here. Their information was conflicting. I approached:
“Where do we go from here?”
One path led east, one led south, and the other, north. They were all inclined to take the path that led east. I looked at the trails for footprints and bicycle tracks, and then pointed to the north:
“Santiago is that way, so that’s the way I’m going.”
I was inspired by my German friend at Moinho Garcia days before, who said, “Santiago is the goal, there are many ways to get there.”
One of the USAmericans said, “The consensus of information says we need to go this way.” He pointed to the eastern trail.
I replied, “Okay, that’s cool, I’m going this way,” and then set forth northward. The truth is, both probably ended where we needed, sometimes there are many options. For me, it is important to not overthink it, but to keep moving.
The elderly German couple quickly followed. One hundred meters down the path, I turned back, the USAmerican group was following as well. I assume the wives won the argument, inspired by my fast pace and my (facade) confidence.
After 2 kilometers of winding through the sandy forests and industrial areas, we arrived at their promised land, the town of Apúlia. All six were ending their day here. The German couple thanked me for the help, the Americans rushed on to a restaurant.
I had a different destination, still 6 kilometers ahead.
The Destination
I strolled in Esposende around 1:30 pm and immediately began my search for a home. The first two albergues were full. The operator at the second one told me that all the town’s shelters were full. I went to a café to consider my options, and to enjoy a Super Bock Stout.
Marinhas was the next town, nearly 5 kilometers away, not too bad. I had tons of energy left because today’s was literally at sea-level the whole way. No thigh/glute/mind burning ascents and descents. I could easily make the walk.
Before I set out, I did a quick search on my Booking app. Lo and behold, there was a private room available at an apartment not 30 feet from where I sat. I booked it, checked in, washed my clothes, and then went out on the town to burn what was left of my energy.
At dinner time, I searched for an open restaurant, not many options. This was a beach town and, in the off-season, so not surprising. Near the beach, I finally found an open restaurant – Good – Hamburgueria.
Dang it, I’d have to have another burger. It was delicious.
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