Learning to Walk 23

CAMINHO PORTUGUÊS – Sabarís

(26,917 STEPS – 20.72 KMS – 12.87 MILES)

The Routine

You know my morning routine by now. Begrudgingly wake up, sluggishly pack my gear, and start my day in search of coffee and pastries. The Camino passed directly in front of the albergue and diverted from the coastline up into the foothills, bypassing the town center of Villadesuso and a likely breakfast stop. This meant a delay in morning fuel. No worries, Mougás was a short 2 kilometers away.

Twenty minutes later, I arrived in Mougás. Nothing. It must have been too early on this Saturday morning. I tightened my belt and steeled my mind for the 5 kilometer walk to the next town, As Mariñas.

Just beyond Mougás, the Camino turned back to the coastline, and continued north. It was my lucky day. 2 kilometers out of town, there was an RV Campground on the shoreline with a full-service café/bar, I wouldn’t have to wait until As Mariñas. Breakfast forty-five minutes before I expected it! Coffee, check. Croissant, check. Café para llevar, check.

*The path in the foothills above the coast. Note that the sheep didn’t have to wait for their breakfast.*

The Paths Diverged

Out of the bar and on the Way again, the walk continued along the highway that paralleled the coast. Shortly before arriving in As Mariñas, a choice had to be made. The paths diverged. The way I was on, along the highway and coastline heading due north, and eventually make a 90-degree turn around the Cape to Baiona. The other, a trail that climbed over two mountains and dropped into Baiona from above. The longer, easier roadside path or the mountain path?

*The smooth roadway along the coastline or this muddy path over the mountains??*

I veered toward the mountain path; it had been a few days since I’ve had any good climbs. And I didn’t regret it! Yes, it was steep and challenging, but the views were amazing with every ascent and around every corner. From certain vantage points I could see pilgrims far below taking the highway route around the bend to Baiona.

The descent from the second mountain ends in the outskirts of Baiona. The bottom fell out of the clouds as I walked through the residential neighborhoods. It was a deluge. I was glad that it didn’t happen while I was in the mountains, it would have made that trail significantly more difficult.

I was also glad to be stuck in a deluge in one of the most hospitable places on the planet. The residents knew that the Camino de Santiago passed in front of their houses, and some with acute situational awareness, knew that there was a downpour outside. I passed several houses where the homeowner was in the garage with the door open and inviting passing pilgrims inside to get out of the weather. I took advantage of this twice. Another instance, I was invited to rest under the awning on the front door of a man’s house. He even stood in the rain with me and chatted! Hospitality takes on flesh and blood on this crazy Way.

At each refuge, the rain would downgrade from a deluge to a downpour, and I would cinch my rain jacket and make more progress down the hill. And each time the deluge would start up again, pounding me as I scurried to the next shelter. After my last break at the awning, I was able to make a good run through the rain and ended up in the Old Town of Baiona. With another stroke of luck, there was a café/bar across from the cathedral. Shelter from the rain AND coffee!!

The rain stopped and the clouds parted as I supped my coffee.

Sabarís

The final 4+ kilometer walk to Sabarís was a breeze considering the mountains and rain that preceded it. I sauntered into town in swampy clothes and a swampy backpack, but early enough to get a good washing and drying for us all this afternoon.

Because of my early arrival, the albergue wasn’t open yet, so I walked a little farther into town for lunch and a beer. After lunch, I went to the nearby market in search of Pringles and Chocolate Donettes. They had Pringles, but no Donettes. The Donettes were a staple last year, though I’ve rarely seen them on this trip.

I walked back to the albergue, it was open, so it was time to settle in for the day. The Albergue Playa de Sabarís was a new facility, right on the Camino. It was a great design and had a staff that took their work seriously. One thing I am finding to be common on the Coastal Route, and that I like, are the curtains on each sleeping cube. They offer a little privacy, which is nice, but sadly, do nothing to mitigate the snoring.

Maybe if the curtains were made out of lead and had velcro seals around the perimeter?