Stage 2 – Pontedeume to Betanzos, 20.2 kms

The day started right in Pontedeume. I slept in, by pilgrim standards, until 7:30 am. By 8:00 am I strolled out of the Albergue Rio Eume like a man on a mission, looking for breakfast. There was an open bar near the path going out of town and I stopped for the most important meal of the day. The value at these little cafés always amazes me, it seems a less greedy economy. The delicious items in the picture above cost just over 3 euros (about $3.50). At Starbucks in the US, it would be $17.50 plus a tip somewhere between 20%-25%-30%. I enjoyed the good, cheap coffee so much, I stayed for another. No rush today, I was only walking 20 kilometers or so. After breakfast, I strapped on my pack and strolled on like a gentleman. But then…

The Camino through and out of Pontedeume turns immediately out of the river valley and straight uphill for 2 kilometers. Thanks, Wise Pilgrim App for the screenshot. If you’re looking for an app to use on your next Camino, I highly recommend this one, available for Android and Apple (does anyone use these anymore?) devices. Anyway, back to my hardships. This steep and long walk out of town was a beast, especially after a casual breakfast, especially after not stretching, and especially before my endorphins (inner dolphins) kicked in. Two-thirds of the way up, and I was gasping for air and my ascending muscle group ached from the early workout. I questioned my existence and recent choices in life, then said to myself, “It could be worse, it could be raining.” Thank you, Mel Brooks for Young Frankenstein and one of my go-to quotes during an existential crisis. Not long after this internal dialog, it started raining as forecasted.

I did make up and over the first big hill, and the four other major ones between Pontedeume and Betanzos. In addition to the four major ones, there are roughly 47 other minor ascents-descents. It was up and down the whole way. Still, it was a beautiful walk, even in the rain.

Before entering Miño, I stopped for second breakfast at a cool little out-of-the-way place. I ordered coffee and a pulguita sandwich (jamón de serrano on baguette). The lady asked if I wanted cheese to go with it. When I said yes, she disappeared into the back room and re-entered moments later with a large wheel of cheese. She cut a chunk off that was an inch and a half thick and covered the surface of the bread. After the first bite of the cheese, I knew I had just tasted the best cheese ever created! The taste was indescribable and much different than the Kraft Packaged Cheeses (petrochemical by-products?) of my home. After the delectable second breakfast, I returned my dishes and told the lady that was the best cheese I’d ever tasted. She was proud of it, said it was her family recipe and not sold in stores…just used in this little place and in their family. Her story reminded me of a great book about Spanish cheeses, The Telling Room. You should read it.

At the crest of one of the 4 major hills (or one of the 47 minor ones), there was a well placed donativo. It seems these things are always in the perfect location for the pilgrim. I always stop at a donativo and I always pay more for the items than necessary. I love the donativo economy – I trust you to take what you need and pay for its value to you. And if you can’t pay, take what you need anyway. As a donativo operator on the French Way once told me, “There’s always enough to buy more.” What a beautiful way to do business in today’s greedy world.

The remainder of the rainy walk was uneventful. There is a lot of scenic countryside on this Stage, even the rain couldn’t dampen those views. And the trail architect, not satisfied with the 5 major ascents-descents, and the 47 minor ones, put another steep one leading into Betanzos. It was fun with wet shoes and on wet streets.

The Albergue Río Mandeo (affiliated with Rio Eume in Pontedeume) was another good one. My brother, an early riser, arrived in Betanzos earlier than I, we met for dinner at delicious kebab shop (redundant?) down from the main plaza. It’s hard to find a place to eat if you want to eat early (before 8:00 pm).

After dinner, I stopped for vino tinto, a snack, and some people watching on the plaza. As you can see in the photo above, I also laid down to go to sleep. Notice the curtain on the bunk cubicle, this is the Holy Grail option in albergue life.