Camino Inglés – Santiago de Compostela

I’ll admit that sometimes I’m a shallow man…for instance, in this broad religio-cultural adventure that is the Camino de Santiago, one of my absolute favorite things is breakfast in the morning. The contents of this breakfast that inspires me: at least one Cafe Americano, a Napolitana de Chocolate, or it’s very suitable substitute, the Croissant Simple. It’s not uncommon for me on a good walk to enjoy a First, Second, or even Third Breakfast before noon. So, the purpose of this paragraph, really, is to justify another picture of coffee and pastries…

The walk today was fantastic, mostly. It was only 16 kilometers (10 miles) and the last 6 were through the urban sprawl of Santiago. Most notably, there was no rain and we glided into Santiago!! Upon arriving in Santiago by foot (this was my 4th time) I have a certain set of rituals to perform.

Ritual #1 – Drink a Sangria at the Parador’s Patio Café and gaze at the Cathedral. I gaze at this building a lot when I’m in town, it fascinates me, outside and in.

Ritual #2 – Go to the SC18 Lavanderia on Rúa San Clemente for a good machine washing/drying of my clothes. Their soap smells amazing and the secadora dries in 10 minutes or less. The SC18 Lavanderia proudly displays Texas icon Willie Nelson. Come to think of it, I may hear more iconic Texas music in Spain than I do on the junky commercial radio stations in San Antonio.

Not a ritual, but something I encountered between rituals, a Boycott/Protest Gathering – it doesn’t take much for the Spaniards to gather – a boycott rally, any day at the Plaza, a Saint’s Day, or a local celebration! I wish we USAmericans would spend more time out in the community.
Ritual #3 – Go to O Bandullo do Lambón Craft Beer Bar for extraordinary beers! This Imperial Stout from Cervexa Nós Brewing in Vigo uses a derogatory and harsh word to describe the Year 2020 (think Covid-19). 2020 was a rough year, but this beer is fantastic!

Ritual #4 – I end the night at the Pazo de Raxoi (Santiago Council building) for a performance of the Tuna de Derecho de Santiago de Compostela. It’s the perfect way to end arrival day in Santiago.
Concello de Santiago de Compostela
The Pazo de Raxoi.

Juxtaposition – the Council, the Church, the Cross, and the Concert

The late-night concert of the Tuna de Derecho de Santiago de Compostela is another of those favorite things about a pilgrim walk to Santiago. I love the music, but it’s more than that…people from all over the world and of all sorts (pilgrims, tourists, locals) joined in a good party. It is festive!

On the wall behind the Tunas is a 3-dimensional piece of art depicting the crucifixion of Jesus of Nazareth. The art is juxtaposed between the Council Building (civil authority) and the Cathedral (religious authority), the two entities that put him on the cross. Saint Paul writes that Christ made a spectacle of these authorities while on the cross (Colossians 2.15).

So often these (one or both) authorities’ complicate life for us regular people, yet here we are united in enjoying the end of a good day. If my understanding of the gospels is correct, I think Jesus would be with us here singing “Cielito Lindo”!

Good night, Santiago. You never disappoint.

Tomorrow, there is unfinished business to tend to…

Leave a comment