Camino Primitivo || The Leg Wrecker 😬😬

Day 8: A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo Baleira, 28.24 km, 17.51 miles

Thanks again, Wise Pilgrim, for the elevation graphics. Before we jump into the day, a few words about Camino guidance and advice…

Elevation Profiles (feel free to skip this paragraph)

Elevation profiles for any of the ways to Santiago are general bits of information and far from an exact representation of how steep the ascent or descent is. On a perfect X-Y chart, the units of measure for X and Y would be the same. For example, in the chart above (X = distance, Y = elevation) if 1″ on the X axis equaled 5 km, then it should represent 5 km on Y axis. The problem with the perfect world X-Y Elevation Chart is that the chart itself would be about 5 miles (or kilometers) long and hard to read. To make it more readable, the X axis is compressed. Since X ≠ Y, this profile is not an exact representation, but a general representation. * The above Elevation Profile conveys the general thought: Lots of ups and downs today, a few are pretty steep…

*(I’m not great at math, but developed this paragraph as a pep talk for myself and the beginning of each difficult day)

The Subjectivity of Information (slightly more important than the previous paragraph, skip if you’d like, but don’t skip the next one)

You can make statements like, “this is arguably the most difficult of the route,” or toss out an ominous nickname like “Leg Wrecker,” or use any of the whiny phrases I’ve used in this blog to complain about the constant climbing. Then there are actual conditions like elevation gain, distance walked, rainy, sunny, warm, or cold. All of these bits of information are subjective because of the person that receives the info. A very difficult route means different things to a highly conditioned athlete, an older person not in great shape, or a whiny South Texan that prefers walking a sea level. Leg Wrecker will be received differently by a person with a weak knee than a person with jacked quadriceps (see picture of the King Alfonso II statue on Day 1, quads like mine!). Some like walking in the rain, others don’t. Northern Europeans have a different tolerance to heat than Texans. Etc., etc., etc. And this is why I don’t like to give…

Camino Advice (this is important, don’t skip)

Take all Camino advice with a grain of salt – whether from Facebook groups, YouTube videos, or any other social media source – they are deeply seasoned with giver’s own perspective and experience and may not directly correlate with your own. And guidebooks and apps are great tools, but since the subject of their guidance is so broad and diverse, there’s no way they can be completely accurate.

Having said all that, absorb as much information as possible, that way you have the knowledge base to walk this grand adventure. Now, start walking.

A view of the foggy valleys from the hills on the outskirts of a Spanish village.

The Most Beautiful Section*

*(This is not a subjective statement, but based on objective reality)

By the end of the day, my legs weren’t wrecked, and I didn’t find this stage particularly difficult. My theory is that the walk is so stunningly beautiful from beginning to end, that the pilgrim doesn’t have time to complain. Also, enjoying the best* Tortilla Española in the known universe didn’t hurt. Casa Mesón, near Paradavella, is a little bar at the end of a long and steep descent, a welcome relief and the makers of a fine tortilla!

The only downside to this great walk was the long stretch into O Cádavo. There seems to be no end in sight until the village appears in the valley after the last climb, just a minor mental inconvenience.

*(Again, this is not a subjective statement, but based on objective reality)

Sunrise in the Galician hills, with a fog settled in the valleys below.

The Camino Provides

“The Camino provides” is a pretty common proclamation along the Way, and much of the time it is implied with a miraculous-mysterious connotation. I don’t doubt this for a minute, BUT most of the time, the Camino provides in smaller, more practical ways – a good break with a good friend, good food, and a good place to lay your head after a long walk. And for these, we can truly be thankful!

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