Day 11: Ferreira to Boente, 27.36 km, 16.96 miles

Today is my last day on the Primitivo, the route merges with the Camino Francés in Melide. So, now would be a good time to share my thoughts from the Camino Primitivo (Oviedo to Melide).

The Primitivo is challenging. From Grado (Day 2) to O Cádavo Baleira (Day 9), it is a perpetual series of ups and down. If you don’t like walking uphill (like me*) you’ll need to find a good coping mechanism (or a different route). If you have knee problems, you’ll need to pay close attention to knee-care. It is also challenging because it isn’t as well-resourced as the Camino Francés or parts of the Portugues, but there is always enough.

*If you’ve read this far, you know this already, as there was plenty of bitchin’ and moanin’ from me…however, I made to the top of every hill and was rewarded with amazing views and rock-hard leg muscles.

The hard work is worth it. The mountains of Asturias provide stunning scenery. Also, the difficulty of the walk appeals to a hearty class of pilgrim that I was very compatible with. Thanks, James, Arno, Gabi, Alex, Oliver, Emil, Wolfgang, Nicole, Julian, Ana, Luis, Daniel, Line, and the nameless others I shared the hills with. And according to Camino normal, the hospitality along this way was exceptional – many memorable shelters and people, including the Casa de Ponte in Ferreira last night…I forgot the shoutout, it’s like staying at home.

I have a special place in my being for the Camino Francés, it being my first (and second) pilgrimage walk, but this Primitivo is now my favorite. As a quirky creature of habit, I could see myself devoting the rest of my life to walking from Oviedo to Santiago. Any sponsors out there? I’ve got backpack space and would be willing to tattoo my calf muscles with your business logo…

I have stayed in Melide two times and have eaten octopus at both of the acclaimed places in town, so, there was no reason to stay again…except my friends, Arno and Line were stopping here. Still, I pressed on to something new and different. Boente is a tiny village 6 kilometers beyond with a good place to sleep.

For the first time since my departure from Oviedo, I walked alone, drank evening wine alone, and dined alone. My reward for choosing a new experience over a good social evening – rain.

About 3 seconds after parting with Arno and Line, the skies began crying and continued the hour and a half to Boente. I slogged into town like a drowned rat. As luck (or good business) would have it, Albergue Boente was well-equipped to serve drenched pilgrims.

Tomorrow morning, I’ll set forth towards Santiago on the familiar French Way…