Day 17 – Carrion de los Condes to San Nicolas del Real Camino, 21.15 miles
There is a 17+ kilometer stretch from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza that’s about as straight as an arrow and flat and with nothing in between, except MAYBE a food truck at the halfway mark. Because this, we decided to leave early, 5:00 am, to get most of this stretch behind us before the sun came up. Darkness didn’t make it any easier…
Calzadilla de la Cueza is a welcome sight when that last little rise is crested, it means food, drink, and civilization!
Most people end this day at Ledigos or Terradillos de los Templarios. Not us, and not me. My friends chose Moratinos (site of a good evening last time for me), and I chose San Nicolas del Real Camino. When I passed through in 2017, I made a note to stay in San Nicolas on my next Camino. Mission accomplished.
I walked the final 2.6 kilometers alone and arrived in San Nicolas in the mid-afternoon. When I checked in at the Alberguería Laganares, I was the only pilgrim in the 22-bed facility! That’s right, exclamation point, I don’t mind solo time. A little later on, French lady and a Belgian lady checked in, but they were in a different room down the hall. Three pilgrims in a 22-bed shelter is a luxury on the Camino.
The place was as cool as I remembered – restored building with lots of charm, a good bar, and cool music playing nonstop. We (the French lady, Belgian lady, and I) shared the pilgrim meal, it was as good as expected.
Pilgrims and Prophets 
I feel like I’m cheating. Getting to experience all this and see all the beauty without having blisters on my feet.
JOY
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You can put some sharp pebbles in your shoes!