CAMINHO PORTUGUÊS – Santa Maria da Feira
(37,332 STEPS – 28.24 KMS – 17.54 MILES)
Sunny Skies!
When I woke this morning, I noticed two things: 1) I didn’t freeze to death overnight, and 2) There were rays of sunshine peeking through the window shades! Thank goodness! Yesterday was super-soggy and it was still raining when I went to sleep.
The 1.5-kilometer walk back up to Pinheiro da Bemposta was rewarded with an open pastelaria in the town square. Coffee and pastries for a proper start! Also making for a proper start were the blue skies, not a cloud in sight! My body and my clothes would get a proper drying today.
The walk this morning was nice – perfect weather and a good mix of towns and forests. The towns, for the availability of refreshments. The forests, for the serene walks.
Late in the morning I arrived in São João da Madeira. After the last two days in small, hospitable towns and remote albergues, I was in no mood for a suburban walk in traffic and shopping malls. Heeding the advice of my previous hosts, I went off-Camino.
My hostess in Albergaria A Velha and my host at Moinho Garcia encouraged me to divert off the Camino towards Santa Maria da Feira or even to the coastline for a more pleasant walk. To do this, I would have to trailblaze, that is to say, refer to Google Maps and wind my way through the busy streets of São João.
I did. It was a fantastic walk, as evidenced by the photo below:
Santa Maria da Feira
I arrived in Santa Maria in the early afternoon. The local advice was indeed good. Santa Maria da Feira was a great place to be, because of the following:
- The town is charming – beautiful churches and old buildings, and a castle at the top of a hill on the outskirts of town.
- There is a reasonably priced hostel, modern and nice, in the heart of the Old Town.
- There was a great restaurant a half-block away from the hostel, the Restaurante Dejá Vú. I had lunch and dinner here, when you find something good, stick with it!
- There was a craft beer bar a block-and-a-half from the hostel, the Lovecraft Public House Feira. Great selection of Portuguese Craft Beer!
- There was a lavanderia a few blocks from the hostel. This means thoroughly clean and dry clothes for me!
Santa Maria da Feira was like a dream come true for me.
Guides
*Funny note about the Railroad Crossing sign on the right – I don’t think I’ve seen that many pilgrims total on the Camino Portugues. So, violating this advice was out of the question.
Colors
*Note – the photo in the lower right-hand corner is not an editing error or glitch. It is the glowing orb near my table at the Restaurante Dejá Vú. Another reason to like Santa Maria da Feira.
Paths
*Note – there are no additional notes for this group of photos.
Pilgrims and Prophets 