Angueira de Suso
(41,341 STEPS – 31.81 KMS – 19.75 MILES)
The Tentative First Steps
Today was a big day – a long walk ahead to set up an easy stroll into Santiago tomorrow, and more importantly, did I really solve the problem on my right foot?
The first thing I did when I awoke was to survey my surgery from last night. The toe looked good and the blood blister dried well overnight. I slathered iodine gel on the lanced blister, covered it with some gauze and leukotape. Then I trimmed my pinky toenail as close as possible, and then wrapped it with leukotape to cover any sharp edges. The final step – slather Leukotape with Compeed Foot Cream. This would minimize any friction from the walk today. With my feet ready, I organized the rest of my being, and then set forth nervously on treated feet.
The Albergue Celenis was at least one-half a kilometer offset from the Camino, this walk on a city sidewalk would be a good test for my toes. When one does daily, long-distance walking, there are normal aches and pains in the feet. It is inevitable, regardless of your conditioning. As you walk, the aches and pains harmonize with the movement of your body and go away, or just go numb. The abnormal pains, like the searing pain of yesterday, are bothersome and need attention. So far this morning, it was just normal achy feet, seems like my toe problem has been resolved! Fingers crossed.
By the time I reached the official Camino path and the Old Town, I was convinced my feet would be okay. I stopped at an open café for a celebratory americano and a croissant. And like yesterday, the hostess at the café gave me a piece of her Tarta de Santiago for the road!
The Pain-Free Walk Through the Galician Countryside
I walked like a king through the beautiful Galician countryside. Through Santa Mariña de Carracedo, Casalderrique, O Pino, and San Miguel de Valga. The toe behaved as if there was never anything wrong. There was some pain if I stepped on a rock at the right (wrong) angle, or if my foot slipped into a gap on the cobblestone streets, and then the pain was sharp, searing, but brief.
The walk yesterday, as far as scenery, availability of resources (coffee, pastries, and bed), and pilgrim interactions, was great. But the walk yesterday was a struggle, the self-imposed stress about the toe made it so. It was only the second time in my outdoor adventure life that I felt like my physical being wouldn’t be able to deliver me to my goal. The first time was when my right-knee locked up high in the Sawatch Mountains in Colorado. Fortunately, rest and a generous application of duct tape solved that problem.
Twelve kilometers into this morning’s walk and everything felt right, I was walking strong.
The Connection
The friend (and his friend) that I was to meet in Porto 9 days ago was finally near. If you recall, they were always 10 to 15 kilometers behind me, but caught up in Caminha. However, in Caminha, there was the Ferry/Jon Boat mix-up, and we missed connecting. From there, I continued up the Coastal Route of Spain. They continued up the Central Route. As we walked parallel paths, separated by 10 kilometers or so, they got ahead of me. In Pontevedra, where the two paths converge, they diverted off on the Variante Espiritual. And today, the Coastal/Central Route converged with this route, and now, all Portugues routes united, led to Santiago.
10 or 15 kilometers (6 to 9 miles) isn’t much separation in an automotive society, we often drive 3x that just to get a good meal at a new restaurant. In a pedestrian society, like the Camino de Santiago, those 10 to 15 kilometers may as well be on the moon. It is hard to close that gap when you’re on foot.
I walked through Pontesecures around 11:30 am and hadn’t heard from them yet. We were in contact often over the days via WhatsApp. I continued walking through Aduana, Padrón, Iria Flavia, Pazos, Rueiro, Tarrio, and Vilar. As I entered A Escravitude, I received a message, they were 2 kilometers behind. I found an open bar in the little town and waited.
Within 30 minutes, they walked up to my table, finally united! Nine days later than planned. That’s how the Camino works sometimes. No worries, we would make the most of the time we had.
More Lessons in Hospitality
Lentil Soup – While I waited for my companions at the little bar in A Escravitude, I decided to have a beer. It was a warm afternoon and I had cause(s) to celebrate. As is the custom, the bartender asked me to be seated, and he would bring the beer to me. I really didn’t mind waiting and carrying it myself, but hospitality and service is important in this culture. I walked empty handed to my table on the terrace. The man wasn’t far behind with the cold beer.
Five minutes later he came back with a bowl of lentil soup, it was his tapa* offering of the afternoon. Like I mentioned, it was a warm afternoon, and a steaming bowl of lentil stew/soup wasn’t that appealing. Again, I didn’t want to reject this gift, so I took a bite. Oh my goodness…it was one of the finest things I’ve ever eaten, a perfect blend of tastes and textures. When he returned to check on me, I praised the lentil soup. He humbly thanked me and took the empty bowl. Hospitality shows up different here, it’s just normal.
When my friends arrived, they ordered drinks, and they also got bowls of steaming lentil soup. Their first reaction was like mine, but I convinced them it was worth the effort.
After a 30-minute visit, we started walking again. The 2 kilometer walk to my albergue in Angueira de Suso went by in a flash as we caught up on our parallel adventures. They dropped me off at my place, and they continued on to Picaraña, 1 kilometer away. Before parting, we made plans to meet for dinner.
The albergue in Angueira de Suso – I chose the Albergue Camiño da Veira solely based on its distance from Santiago de Compostela, I wanted a short walk into the city tomorrow. It was another lodging win. There were some really standout albergues on this trip, and this one was added to the list.
The building was a converted home that had private rooms, a bunk room with 12 beds, good common areas, and a great garden area. What made this place special was the hospitality of the host.
He was from the little town and lived just a couple of houses away. He and his dog spent most of the afternoon at the albergue. It was easy to see this was a labor of love and he really enjoyed being with pilgrims. He mingled with all of us during the afternoon.
Also, the resources in the town were scant, but he kept a fully stocked kitchen – dinner staples, breakfast staples, soft drinks, coffee, tea, wines, and a good beer selection. The most astonishing thing to me – all of this stuff was available on the honor system. There was a price list on the refrigerator and a clear plexiglass coin box beside it. This kind of economy appeals to me, to be trusted at the onset of the relationship is inspiring. I grabbed 2 Brew Dog Punk IPAs, dropped the appropriate coins in the box, and went out to soak in the backyard pool.
Oh yeah, it didn’t hurt that there was a backyard pool. And the fourth toe on my right foot was especially grateful for the frigid water.
The dinner in Picaraña – After soaking in the cold pool, I walked to Picaraña for dinner with Gary and Paul. We had a great meal, and it was good to catch up with Gary and to get to know Paul. Together, we would walk to Santiago tomorrow morning.
*Author’s note: Tapas or pinchos are free snacks provided at most cafés/bars.
Guides
Colors
Paths
Pilgrims and Prophets 