Camino de Muxía, Etapa 3, Santa Mariña to A Grixa, 30.1 kilometers

This walk to the coast from Santiago might be my favorite terrain of all that I’ve walked (Francés, Português, Inglés). I love the views, the forests, and the fields. I’ll add more to this in the next post.

I decided on this journey that 20 to 22 kilometers a day is my sweet spot for walking (my range is 10km to 43km). The weather was perfect today, so I decided on a longer walk, 30 kilometers or so. It’s a pleasure in good country!

Lago, the little village in the photo below, is aptly named after the lago in the photo above. Last year, I had a great rural albergue experience in Lago at the Albergue Monte Aro. The village is a farm town and the albergue is situated right in the middle of some agriculture enterprise. I didn’t overnight there this year, but I stopped to reminisce and have 2nd Breakfast.

If you’ve followed along so far, you may think I have a boring breakfast palate – coffee and croissants, but every now and then I level up. Side note – the hashtag on the package recommends sharing, as if…

The walk out of Olveiroa is beautiful!  Lots of hills but great views in the valleys and on the hilltops. Galicia doesn’t have the big hills (except the way up to O Cebreiro) like the Pyrenees or mountains around Cruz de Ferro. It does, however, have lots of ups and down. At the end of the day, I think these perpetual ascending and descending and ascending again are more tiring than the mountains.

There’s a werewolf legend in this part of Galicia, Vakner’s territory. On the way to Finisterre (after the Great Divide and before Cee), there’s a big sculpture of the creature. After several days in the area, I’m glad to report no werewolf sightings, or signs of me turning into one…

From Santiago, the Ways to Finisterre and Muxía share the same path for over two-thirds of the way. You have to make your choice 1 kilometer beyond Hospital at the Great Divide. Left to Finisterre, right to Muxía. Last year, it was to the left. This year, the right way.

A pilgrimage can be a journey of transformation if you’re open to it. One of the most important lessons for me is repeated on this sign. I’ve learned on the Camino to discern what I really need to enjoy a day, on pilgrimage or not.

Simple living is the life for me. All my stuff in a 30-liter backpack, a good cup of coffee & croissant in the morning, a cold beer on a sunny afternoon, and a circle of good people.

Downtown A Grixa was a welcome sight after my longest walk of this journey. It didn’t take long to make it through town to my home for the night.

After 20+ miles today, these two feet enjoyed the nice garden at Albergue O Cabanel. O Cabanel is in the little village of A Grixa and is about the only thing in town.

Most of my best albergue experiences happen in places like this – a big shared room upstairs, a bar-café downstairs, and run by a family whose trademark is hospitality!

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