CAMINHO PORTUGUÊS – Santiago
(31,925 STEPS – 24.28 KMS – 15.08 MILES)
The Dark Walk
My new walking companions are early risers, putting 5 to 10 kilometers before I even roll out of bed. So, we came to a compromise at dinner last night, we will leave their lodging in Picaraña at 7:00 am. Not too early, but still dark outside.
I was awake at 6:00 am and ready to walk out of the Camiño da Vieira albergue at 6:30 am. I’m not going to lie, I was excited by the thought of arriving in Santiago, but I wouldn’t have minded staying in this place for an extra day.
The Camino winds through the forest above the highway that connects Angueira de Suso and Picaraña and it was a dark walk the whole way. Thank goodness for my headlamp, used only twice on this journey – my toe surgery two days ago and this morning. Between the headlamp and my shuffling steps, I must have scared away the Camino bears and Spanish wolves*, I arrived safely. Gary and Paul were waiting in front of their hostel.
The short(ish) walk into Santiago was uneventful, passing through 2 or 3 small towns before reaching the suburbs of the city. The highlight of the walk was the moving visit I had with Gary and Paul. I’m sure we would have had a great time had we been able to connect closer to Porto.
*Author’s note: I’ve never seen any wildlife in Spain. I did see a fox in Portugal and once read a cool story of a Spanish boy raised by wolves. So, no wildlife danger here.
Arrival
The Camino Frances enters Santiago de Compostela from the northeast, the Camino Portugues enters the city from the southwest. I was familiar with this part of the walk because it passes very near the train station. The guys had some uncertainty about their travel to Porto for their flights home, so we stopped by the train station to verify. There was a pending rail strike that complicated matters.
It just so happened that there was a train leaving for Vigo and then Porto in a couple of hours. They decided to stay at the train station instead of going up to the Cathedral and then back again.
And just like that I was on my own again. I left the train station and found the Rúa do Hórreo, and began the walk up to the Cathedral. I was excited, I love this part of arriving, that final stretch to the Praza do Obradoiro and the Cathedral. As I neared the Cathedral, I left the Camino Portugues and circled around to the Camino Frances. The entry through the tunnel to the plaza seems more official, and I like bagpipe music (who doesn’t). I wiggled my way through the Old City until I found the Praza de Cervantes, now I was on familiar ground. On through the canyon of hotels, albergues, restaurants, cafés, and souvenir shops until I entered the stunning Praza da Inmaculada. I could hear the bagpipe in the distance, and I was quickly in the tunnel, and through it, into the Praza do Obradoiro for the third time after a long walk! I love this place and this feeling.
I walked over to the Concello de Santiago de Compostela building, dropped my pack, and sat against the wall, gazing at the Cathedral.
Santiago Arrival Rituals
I sat against the Council building for thirty minutes, staring at the Cathedral and enjoying the pilgrim celebrations in the Praza. I could have stayed here longer but I had things to do and people to see. First was a trip down to the Pilgrim Office to get my Compostela (certificate of completion).
While there, I received a message from Miguel and Rosa, they had just arrived and wanted to meet at the Praza. Before going back up to the Cathedral, I stopped for a cup of coffee at the Camino Companions office, it is in the same building as the Pilgrim Office.
The Camino Companions is a service run by Sisters from the Faithful Companions of Jesus order. They provide coffee, conversation in your native tongue, processing, and a quiet place for reflection. I’ve not done this in the past, but today it was time well spent.
Back at the Praza, I found Miguel and Rosa, hugged and congratulated them, and then invited them to join me in my Santiago Ritual #1 – Sangria at the outdoor café that is a part of the swanky Parador Hotel. After two drinks and adoration of the Cathedral, we parted ways. We all had to settle into our lodging, but made plans to meet again at 5:30 pm for Santiago Ritual #2 before Mass.
At 5:30, we met at the Praza again and walked to opposite end, and down the stairs to the Restaurante Dubra to celebrate Santiago Ritual #2. The Dubra has a great view of the Cathedral from a different perspective. They also have very good Pimientos de Padrón and Melón con Jamón! Eating the Padrón peppers is like eating candy (except healthy) and the Melón/Ham combo is my favorite meal anytime, anywhere! Miguel added two servings of Pulpo a la Gallega (Octopus) to the ritual, a nice addition.
We scarfed down the ritual meal and then walked up to the Cathedral for a tour before the Evening Mass. Every time I walk through this building, I see something new. It is a fascinating place. The Mass is always special, and the swinging of the Botafumeiro is the pinnacle of the experience.
While at Mass, we ran into my two young German friends from Caldas de Reis. We invited them to celebrate Santiago Ritual #3 with us.
Santiago Evening Rituals
Santiago Ritual #3 is a trip to O Bandullo do Lambón, an excellent craft beer bar in the shadow of the Cathedral. O Bandullo has a great selection of craft beer from all over the world, and the best from Spain. They also have a solid tapas offering. After a beer and the final visit, we all went our separate ways. They all had planes or trains to catch in the morning, and I would continue walking.
Before heading back to my room, I had to stop and fulfill Santiago Ritual #4, the nightly concert of the Tuna de Derecho Santiago de Compostela on the porch of the Concello de Santiago de Compostela building! I stumbled across this concert when I was here in October of 2022. It has quickly become my favorite ritual in the city!
Pilgrims and Prophets 
Just awesome!!